Did you know that the Upper Rio Grande Valley of Portland, Jamaica is home to the island’s highest concentration of waterfalls? The Rio Grande, one of Jamaica’s widest and most important rivers, divides the Blue and John Crow Mountains in two and plays a major role in the mountain park’s natural and cultural history. These mountains contain some of the Caribbean’s greatest biodiversity and are home to the Windward Maroons, Jamaica’s indigenous peoples who fought for and obtained their freedom long before the rest of West Indies. As such, the Blue & John Crow Mountains became Jamaica’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2015. It is deep within these mountains that the Cestan Spring Falls and its nearby neighbour, the Best River/ Frazer Hill Waterfall can be found. Here’s how this adventure went.
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How to Find Cestan Spring Waterfall
Cestan Spring Falls is located in Comfort Castle, a small Maroon community located in the Upper Rio Grande Valley. I first visited this corner of Jamaica five years ago on a daytrip when I explored the White River Falls in Millbank. Since then, I’ve had two other daytrips to the Upper Rio Grande Valley to visit: Nanny Falls in Moore Town, and Cunha Cunha Pass which traverses Hayfield, Bowden Pen and Millbank. Without a doubt, this is the most beautiful corner of Jamaica and it was love at first sight, but I’m always so exhausted afterwards. Drive time from Kingston without stops takes 3 hours (110km), while from Montego Bay takes 4 1/2 hours (220km), so imagine doing that drive round trip in a single day!
As such, I opted to spend the night at the Katawud Village campsite in the neighbouring Ginger House district. They offer the most affordable overnight accommodation in the area starting at $3,500 JMD (US$23) per person per night, but accommodations are very rustic. Check out my other recommendations of where to stay in Portland, Jamaica. Spending the night in Portland instead of rushing back home while tired made the trip so much more enjoyable.
Camping next to the Rio Grande
On our way to camp, we stopped in Port Antonio for lunch and stumbled across Dappo’s Food Truck. The jerk chicken was alright, but the oxtail and curry goat were pretty good. Food options in this parish are very limited, so it was great to add somewhere new to my list of places to eat in Portland. From there, we made the right turn from the salty Port Antonio coast to the deeply rural communities of the Upper Rio Grande Valley. That being said, the road quality was great– narrow, winding and a few potholes here and there, but still in much better shape than five years ago. Google Maps/ Waze was very easy to follow, but the road signs were reassuring too. At the campsite, we pitched our tents then headed to the waterfall. We walked from Katawud to the Swinging Bridge in 15-20 minutes (located on Google Maps), then gingerly descended a small trail down to the river which was located next to the bridge. From there, the waterfall becomes immediately visible so a guide isn’t required.
Enjoying Cestan Spring Waterfall
What a beauty, right?! It was a hot and humid day in Portland, so Cestan Spring Waterfall offered a welcome respite. I thoroughly enjoyed the cold shower and massage provided by the falls, so I stood under its might for as long as I could. The waterfall is free of charge, so we were happy to have it to ourselves for an hour– especially on a holiday weekend at that! By time we got company, we were ready to find another waterfall we had heard of which has an interesting name.
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Best River Falls
Living up to its reputation of most waterfalls per square mile in Jamaica, the Best River Waterfall, also known as Frazer Hill Falls, is located fifteen minutes (walking distance) up the road from Cestan Spring Falls. Visible from the main road, this waterfall is quite a beauty and is located next to another popular campsite in Portland, Jamaica. Now, I’m not sure who determined that this waterfall deserved the name “Best River Falls” but we certainly enjoyed it. It’s worth checking both waterfalls off the list if you ever pay a visit to Comfort Castle in Portland.
Wrap Up
Back at camp, we rounded out the evening with campfire burgers, S’mores, and a round of Uno and Ludo. After a successful day one, we went to bed dreaming of the third waterfall on the itinerary which I’ll write about next week! You won’t want to miss it, so make sure you’re subscribed. 😊 Have you ever visited the Upper Rio Grande Valley and its charming Maroon communities which house the highest concentration of waterfalls in Jamaica, or would you like to visit? Sound off in the comments section below. ‘Til next time.
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