Tucked away in the quaint rural community of Nonsuch, Portland, lies the tallest waterfall in Jamaica. At 291 feet (89m) from its base, Nonsuch Falls is actually 100 feet taller than Niagara Falls, North America’s most visited waterfall! I’ve delayed my visit to Nonsuch Falls a few times to ensure I’d capture it at peak water volume which only happens just after heavy rains. My wait was rewarded with a memorable adventure earlier this month which far exceeded expectations. With that said, here’s everything you need to know to plan a visit to Nonsuch Falls.
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What’s Inside
The History of Nonsuch
The village of Nonsuch in Portland, my favourite Jamaican parish, is home to some 250 people today. Nonsuch reportedly got its name from an Englishman who owned property in the community, and said there is ‘no such place like this’ because the community is beautiful and self-sufficient. Its history dates back to the Tainos who used the Nonsuch Cave as a burial and ceremonial site, as pictographs and pieces of pottery were uncovered there by archaeologists in the 1900s. The cave is located about 656 feet (202m) above sea-level and has nine separate chambers with interesting rock formations, stalactites and stalagmites. Fossils of fish and other sea creatures can be seen in its limestone formations, proving that Jamaica was once beneath the sea. One chamber has a ceiling forty feet (13m) high and is home to a colony of bats. Nonsuch Cave is located at Athenry Gardens. Once a coconut plantation and agricultural research centre, Athenry Gardens was subsequently transformed into a botanical garden. Unfortunately, it is privately owned and has been closed to the public for decades.
How to Visit Nonsuch Falls
Nonsuch Falls is a beautiful hidden gem which is open to the public and managed by a local family-run business. They offer guided tours to the falls, while protecting the beauty and diversity of the surrounding environment. They offer two tours to suit varying fitness levels– the less strenuous lasts 15 minutes and goes to the top of the waterfall where there are small rapids and pools for swimming and relaxing. Naturally, I opted for the more strenuous option to visit the top and bottom of the waterfall. This hike lasted approximately 40 minutes and involved uneven terrain, mud and wading through the river. The current costs to visit are:
- Top of the Falls: $23 USD ($2,000 JMD for locals)
- Top & Bottom of the Falls: $28 USD ($3,000 JMD for locals)
Reservations are required and can be made by contacting them via email or phone. In addition to waterfall tours, Nonsuch Falls offers axe throwing, games, and even overnight accommodation. The road to get there was fairly decent if you’re familiar with driving in Jamaica; 4WD is useful but not required. Roundtrip drive time from Kingston lasted about 5 hours. Nonsuch Falls was also quite straightforward to find using Waze; Google Maps is NOT recommended. In terms of what to pack, you only need insect repellant, sneakers, water shoes, cash, food, drink and a great attitude! It’s best to pack light. 😉
My Hike to Nonsuch Falls
Our guide Malik was friendly, helpful and patient, frequently looking back to ensure we were keeping pace and to lend a helping hand. Our host Lesley was jovial and hospitable, sitting to chat with us after the hike about our experience, the history of the community and future development plans. Her pride about the business and community shone brightly, and was the cherry on top for an already spectacular day. Nonsuch Falls exceeded my expectations. After my shenanigans last year, namely my second time at Blue Mountain Peak, a 26-km Cockpit Country hike and this high altitude hike in Guatemala, this 40-minute trek felt gentle but the views? I’d never seen anything quite like it. I’ve now visited over 30 Jamaican waterfalls, so I think I’m qualified enough to say: Nonsuch Falls is the most beautiful and breathtaking waterfall in Jamaica.
The sunlight filtered perfectly through the lush rainforest, casting a cool iridescent glow over everything. The pools and rapids we encountered before the main ‘Falling’ were exciting too, but nothing prepared me for the joy of bending the corner and coming face to face with the main waterfall. One by one, the hikers ahead of me who saw it first were oohing and aahing, mouths agape. At the back of the group, my husband quipped “that view better be worth how you guys are going on.” In a matter of seconds, his face looked just like ours, speechless. The thundering waterfall blanketed us in an ethereal mist, and hastened our steps, eager to get a closer view of the waterfall.
Visiting Nonsuch Falls a day after heavy rains meant seeing her in her fullest glory– mighty enough to drench us in spray after a minute. In fact, the spray was powerful enough to steal my friend’s cap so getting very close to the waterfall, or even taking pictures, was difficult. My only problem: Nonsuch Falls after rain has raised the bar impossibly high for future waterfall treks, but that’s a great problem to have. Delaying my visit to Nonsuch Falls was well worth it because the waterfall slows to a trickle during dry season.
Wrap Up
I feel so blessed to live in Jamaica where hidden gems like this exist. Being able to explore Jamaica the way my friends and I do is beyond my ancestors’ wildest dreams. I do this for them, who for hundreds of years, retreated to these wild rainforests for freedom but lived in constant fear of recapture and never had the chance to enjoy Jamaica’s beauty. It’s important for us to explore and preserve these remaining gems for future generations too, as so many of our attractions (e.g. 99% of Jamaica’s coastline) are inaccessible to locals. Have you ever heard about Nonsuch Falls or would you like to visit? Sound off in the comments section below! If you enjoyed this post, you may also like:
- Nanny Falls in Portland
- Spanish River in Portland
- Millbank Falls in Portland
- Rafting on the Rio Grande in Portland
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